On this day in 2018, the ferry MV Nyerere capsized on Lake Victoria, within sight of the pier at Ukara Island in Tanzania. She was making the short crossing from Ukerewe, a routine run of a few kilometres that people took as a matter of course. It was a market day, and the boat was carrying passengers and their goods home.
Two hundred and twenty-eight people died. Forty-one were rescued. Local boat crews were on the water first, as they almost always are, and divers worked the hull in the days that followed; the ferry was righted and brought in more than a week later, and the last of those aboard were accounted for then rather than on the day.
The crossings that ask the least of us are still crossings. I think today of the families on Ukerewe and Ukara who waited at the pier, and of the people who went into the water to bring them word.
The fishermen who reached the hull first had no equipment and no orders, only their own boats and the sense to go. Forty-one people are alive because of neighbours who did not wait to be told.